Zero Fade vs Skin Fade: Men’s Haircut Grades & Numbers Explained

Zero Fade vs Skin Fade

Fades are everywhere these days, but two styles tend to stand out – zero fade and skin fade. Both look sharp, modern, and clean, but what sets them apart? Let’s break down everything you need to know about skin fade vs zero fade, the benefits of each, and which style might suit you best.

a men with Zero Fade

If you want to get the exact haircut you envision and help your barber achieve it, understanding men’s haircut numbers and hair length grades is essential. Knowing the right haircut numbers will save you from unwanted surprises and keep communication clear.

What Are Haircut Numbers & Hair Length Grades?

Haircut numbers range from 0 to 8 and indicate hair length; the higher the number, the longer the hair. Each number refers to a clipper guard size, where lower numbers leave less hair and higher numbers leave more.

For example, a number 1 haircut leaves about 1/8 inch (3mm) of hair, while a number 8 leaves about 1 inch (25mm). Guard sizes may vary by brand, so it’s always wise to double-check with your barber.

Haircut Numbers Chart

Haircut NumberLength in mmLength in inches
01.51/16
131/8
261/4
3103/8
4131/2
5165/8
6193/4
7227/8
8251

Decoding Each Haircut Number

  • Number 0: Creates a skin-tight buzz or fade with nearly no hair left.
  • Number 1: Leaves ⅛ inch of hair, ideal for a very short and clean look.
  • Number 2: Leaves ¼ inch, providing a bit more coverage and neatness.
  • Number 3: Adds texture with ⅜ inch for a short but defined look.
  • Number 4: Medium length, at ½ inch, for versatility in styling.
  • Number 5: Longer at ⅝ inch, offering a more styled, above-the-ears cut.
  • Number 6: A longer, easy-to-maintain ¾ inch style.
  • Number 7: Gives ⅞ inch for a textured look that sits near the forehead.
a men with Zero Fade

Choosing the Right Haircut Grade for You

1. Hair Type

Your hair type can influence how a specific grade looks. For thicker hair, a higher grade can help balance the volume, while thinner hair might need a shorter grade for a clean look.

2. Hair Texture

Hair texture, whether straight, wavy, or curly, affects how each grade appears. For curly hair, a higher guard may achieve the desired length due to natural shrinkage.

3. Face Shape

Matching your haircut to your face shape can create balance. Round faces often suit shorter styles, while square faces benefit from softer, rounded cuts.

a men with Zero Fade

4. Preferred Maintenance

Whether you enjoy regular trims or prefer a longer-lasting style, your barber can recommend grades that match your upkeep routine.

A barbershop visit is no longer just about a simple trim—many guys now have specific haircut goals. But for many, the challenge lies in describing what they want to their barber. Spotting a hairstyle you like is one thing, but explaining it is another. Knowing how to ask is essential. In this article, we’re diving into the popular fade haircut technique, a staple in modern men’s hairstyles. Understanding this technique could be the key to getting the haircut you truly want.

Types of Fade Hairstyles

What is a Fade Haircut? Everything You Need to Know

a men with Zero Fade

The fade haircut began in the U.S. military in the 1940s and ’50s, later becoming a staple in Black and Hispanic barber shops. It rose to mainstream popularity in the ’90s with icons like Will Smith in The Fresh Prince of Bel-Air.

Once seen as a more daring look, fades are now widely accepted, even in professional settings. Recently, this style has expanded across different hair types, with more men blending fades into various hairstyles.

Tapers, skin fades, and low, medium, and high fades are all variations of the fade, but it can be tricky to know the differences. Here’s a guide to understanding fade haircuts and choosing the right one.

What is a Fade Haircut?

A fade is a gradual change in length and colour on the back and sides of the head, blending shorter lengths into longer ones. Fades are categorised by how high the shortest section goes up before transitioning.

Types of Fade Haircuts

a men with Zero Fade
  1. Taper Fade
    The taper is a subtle fade around the neckline or sideburns. It’s low-profile and commonly used to blend a beard with the hairline or pair with longer side hair.
  2. Low Fade
    A low fade starts near the bottom of the head, often around a third of the way up. This style offers a softer transition, ideal for those who want a clean look without sharp contrasts.
  3. Mid Fade
    The mid fade begins about halfway up the head, often just above eyebrow level, giving a balanced look. It can work well with different face shapes and adds a framing effect around the eyes.
  4. High Fade
    The high fade is the boldest, with the shortest length reaching the upper third of the head, sometimes close to the crown. It’s great for those who want a strong contrast between the sides and top.
  5. Zero Fade: Hair is blended down to zero with no guard on the clippers.
  6. Skin Fade: A razor or shaver is used for an ultra-smooth transition down to bare skin.
  7. High Fade: The fade starts above the temples and moves up toward the crown.

The Fade Technique in Modern Hairstyles

a men with Zero Fade

The fade has become a key feature in contemporary barbering, fitting into styles for men of all ages. A few current trends include:

  • Mullet with Fade: This style combines a mullet with faded sides for a modern twist.
  • Crop Top with Mid-to-High Fade: A trendy look with a fade that sits mid to high on the head.
  • High Burst Fade with Sharp Neckline: A bold, stylish choice with a fade cut high on both sides and a crisp, angular neckline.

How to Ask for a Fade Haircut

Here’s what to discuss with your barber:

  1. Fade Height
    Decide on the height (taper, low, mid, or high) that best suits your face shape and personal style.
  2. Top Style
    The fade only affects the back and sides, so decide how you want to style the top.
  3. Fade Length
    Choose how short you want the fade to go (skin, 0, 1, 2, etc.). It’s often better to start with a longer fade length and adjust as you go.
  4. Bring Photos
    Pictures are helpful for showing exactly what you want and ensuring you and your barber are on the same page.
a men with Zero Fade

FAQs

1. What Is the Difference Between a Zero Fade and a Skin Fade?

The key difference lies in how short each style gets. A zero fade cuts the hair down very close to the scalp but doesn’t expose bare skin, leaving a faint layer of hair. A skin fade, on the other hand, takes the fade down to the scalp itself, making it look almost like the hair naturally fades into the skin.

  • Zero Fade: Offers a softer blend and keeps a hint of hair at the shortest point. It’s a subtle transition that’s ideal if you want a close-cut look without going all the way down to bare skin.
  • Skin Fade: Also known as a bald fade, this style goes down to the skin for a clean, edgy look. It’s bold, modern, and high-contrast.

2. Which Fade Is Best: 0 Fade vs 1 Fade?

If you’re wondering about 0 fade vs 1 fade, it comes down to how close you want the shortest part of your fade. A 0 fade is essentially the same as a zero fade – extremely short but still leaving a fine layer. A 1 fade is slightly longer, which can provide a gentler transition if you want a bit more length at the bottom.

3. Types of Skin Fades and Zero Fades

a men with Zero Fade

Each fade style can be customised with low, mid, or high starting points, giving you flexibility depending on the look you’re going for:

  • Low Zero Fade: Starts lower around the ears for a subtle finish. Perfect for professionals or those who prefer a softer, understated fade.
  • Mid Zero Fade: Starts around the middle of the head, providing a balanced look. It’s versatile and suits many face shapes.
  • High Zero Fade: Begins higher up, giving a bold, sharp look that’s often seen as more modern and trendy.

For skin fades, you’ll find similar types:

  • Low Skin Fade: Great for a subtle, clean look.
  • Mid Skin Fade: Starts in the middle and gives a balanced, stylish edge.
  • High Skin Fade: Very noticeable and daring. Best for those who want their hairstyle to stand out.

4. Skin Fade Haircut: How Long Does It Last?

One of the main appeals of a skin fade haircut is its fresh, clean look, but it does require upkeep. Typically, a skin fade will stay sharp for about 1-2 weeks, after which you might notice regrowth at the shortest part of the fade. Many prefer regular touch-ups to keep the style crisp.

After one week, a skin fade after 1 week might look softer, as new hair begins to show. This style does require more frequent trips to the barber to maintain its signature, skin-level look.

a men with Zero Fade

5. Which Fade Looks Best?

When it comes to the most attractive fade, it really depends on your face shape and personal style:

  • Round Faces: A high zero fade or high skin fade can add length and structure to a round face.
  • Square Faces: A mid fade complements the angles in a square face, balancing out the sharp features.
  • Long Faces: A low fade works best for those with longer face shapes, keeping proportions balanced without adding height.

6. Is Zero Fade Any Good?

Absolutely. A zero fade provides a close-cut look without revealing the scalp fully, making it an excellent choice for those who want a professional look that’s still edgy. It’s also easier to maintain compared to a skin fade, as it doesn’t show regrowth as quickly.

a men with Zero Fade

7. Is Having a Fade Haram?

This is a question that often comes up for religious reasons. The acceptability of fades varies, so it’s always best to consult with a religious advisor if you’re unsure. For many, a zero fade haircut is seen as a modest yet stylish choice that works in various cultural settings.

8. Do Skin Fades Suit Everyone?

While skin fades are stylish, they don’t suit everyone. Because they expose more of the scalp, they can emphasise head shape. Those with a rounder head shape or specific scalp concerns might feel more comfortable with a low zero fade or mid zero fade for a more subtle look.

9. Why Are Skin Fades More Expensive?

A skin fade usually costs more because it requires precision and skill to blend the fade seamlessly into the scalp. The technique is more time-intensive than other cuts, hence the higher price.

10. Choosing Between a Taper or Skin Fade

If you’re undecided between a taper and a skin fade, think about the look you’re going for:

  • Taper: More traditional, gradually shortens hair while leaving some length around the edges.
  • Skin Fade: Sharp, modern, and edgy. Ideal for a bolder, defined look.

11. Is a Skin Fade Different from a 0 Fade?

While a skin fade and 0 fade are similar, they’re not the same. A 0 fade leaves a tiny layer of hair, while a skin fade goes straight down to the scalp. The skin fade has a sharper, more pronounced finish, perfect for someone who wants a cleaner cut.

12. Benefits of a Skin Fade Haircut

A skin fade haircut has a lot of appeal:

  • Modern Look: Sleek and stylish, perfect for those who love a sharp look.
  • Versatile: Works well with various hairstyles, from short on top to longer styles.
  • Easy Maintenance: Minimal styling needed; however, regular trips to the barber will keep it fresh.

13. Is a Fade Good for Balding Hair?

For those with thinning hair, a fade can be a great option. A mid skin fade can give the illusion of thickness on top, while a zero fade offers a clean, blended look that doesn’t draw attention to thinning areas.

14. Which Fade Is the Most Handsome?

There’s no “best” fade that works for everyone, but high fades are popular for their bold look. However, a low skin fade is often seen as very attractive because of its subtlety.

15. Should I Get a Zero Fade?

If you’re new to fades or want a style that’s easy to maintain, a zero fade could be a good choice. It’s versatile, sharp, and doesn’t go all the way down to the scalp, making it a safe yet stylish option for many.

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